the Fly Clone Project

Hey all, this is my first post here, but have been lurking for some time. I have a 2011 Mojo (trans red) that I recently setup. While setting the intonation, I found that the threading for the low E saddle was completely stripped - screw just sitting in there.

Would you recommend that I pick up a new bridge, or is it worth trying to rethread it? Could an epoxy used to fill in the threads?

Secondary question - there are times when there is a resonance from somewhere in the vibrato when playing certain tones. I do not believe it is a loose saddle (I’ve held the loose saddle to rule that out). Almost seems like it might be the spring.

Hiya!

Hmmm...the bridge on Fly's is machined aluminium (I believe)..aluminium is quite soft.. where I'm heading is re-cutting the thread might be more trouble than it's worth, plus I reckon you'd end up having to enlarge the hole a bit and etc etc...
The bridges themselves are pretty hard to find, and replacing the whole thing while not impossible, is a fair bit of work and also carries the risk of damaging the piezos etc.

If it were mine, I'd look at maybe a mechanical fix like a bit of tinfoil as a sort of insert/shim for the screw to bite... maybe along with a drop of super glue? Might work.. really the function of the screw is to hold the saddle in place, so you need someway to do that.

Actually, a thin aluminium insert might be the best way, thin sheet rolled into a tube and slipped into the hole in the bridge with a drop of super glue to hold it in place, then tap into that?!

Dunno, it's a tough one! Someone else may have better suggestions.

Cheers

B.S.

I’m going to give this a go: https://www.penntoolco.com/helicoil-scr ... 20%2464.85

Looks good, @Gregsaab—please let us know how it works out!

#SaddleIssues

Was going to suggest helicoil- exactly what these are meant for. Just watch that the coil isn’t too tall.

Failing that, you could remove the bridge, take it to a machine shop and have the plug, redrill and tap. Probably 10 mins and if you bring donuts, they might not charge you.

billy wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 8:02 pm Was going to suggest helicoil- exactly what these are meant for. Just watch that the coil isn’t too tall.

Failing that, you could remove the bridge, take it to a machine shop and have the plug, redrill and tap. Probably 10 mins and if you bring donuts, they might not charge you.

Nice, glad that this looks like a good solution. I haven’t gotten the kit in the mail, but should be soon. Based on the parts list, the saddle screws are 8/32” or 0.25 and the kit comes with inserts ranging from 0.164-.328 so I should be good.

Edit: the screw is 3/8” or 0.375, so the longest insert in kit is just shy of the full length, but I don’t think that should be an issue.

I will have to drill/tap the hole a bit — how concerned should I be about damaging the piezo?

The Fishman piezo saddle has one delicate wire epoxied into the bottom of it which travels to a smeared blob of solder on the trem block that the other elements are sum-soldered to. Though I’d personally desolder the thing and move it out of harm’s way, you should be fine if you just keep away from stabbing or tugging on the wire.

That is great info to have, much appreciated!

The Helicoil repair kit finally came in. Now my question is how can I get more slack in the piezo wire that connects to the saddle? I do not have enough room to tap the new threads.

Edit: damn, @mmmguitar already stated it’s soldered on both sides…

Definitely risky tapping a hole when there was little to no play in the saddle due to piezo wire, had a close call.

Got new thread in, guitar intonated, and saddle locked in. And added bonus: piezo still working.

Feels good to have been able to fix that myself.

Great news, @Gregsaab!

And, wow—that is one great-looking Fly!

Awesome! And yeah, that fly is pretty