the Fly Clone Project

 

Hi @schrectacular,

Sorry to hear/see this!

You probably already saw this post from @Ken Parker about some approaches. If you go with lighter strings like 9s, it could be bent back permanently. If it were me, I'd try to pursue one of those options--make it a light-gauge string guitar if possible, and forget the idea that it could ever be adjusted.

I can tell you, having spoken with Ken about what one might do to replace a truss, it can be done without removing the fretboard, but, from what I recall in the conversation, you'd have to remove the rod through the body past the 24th fret, and your Fly will never look the same.

I have heard of some people removing the fingerboard of the Fly and attaching a traditional fingerboard, but I have no experience with that. My gut reaction is that the fingerboard on your Fly is 40 thousands of an inch thick, so, even if that was removed, how could a fretboard on top of that wood practically work with that added height? The Fly fingerboard was not designed to ever be moved--it (with the frets) is vacuum-formed to the contour of your exact neck contour, so you'd be giving up a lot by getting rid of that.

Yep it's sad. I don't think I'll get rich enough fast enough to get Ken to make me an archtop. Alas.

But does my diagnosis seem correct? That little hump there is not normal, right? The bow is not too severe, it's totally playable. Action is just a bit high, 2mm on 12th fret.

Yes, I would bet that part of the nut at the top of the truss rod has sheared off and is pushing through the wood—that’s the bump that you’re seeing.

What gauge strings are you using?

I used 10s for years but it's 9s now.

If it were me, I’d ask Patrick at www.iGuitarWorkshop.com if he could bow the neck back (as Ken described) and do something to lock that truss rod in place. The rod wouldn’t be adjustable any more, but it’s not really functioning properly now anyway. No affiliation, but he’s worked on many Parkers and has done some work for me with a Fky that has a maxed out and I’ll-functioning truss (also USM-era).

I absolutely 100% would not remove the fretboard or go through the back of the neck to try to replace the truss rod. If I absolutely had to have a tech gouge out the top of the guitar to get the rod out of there, I’d rather them do that and then figure out the cosmetic remedies than deal with issues related to the frets or fretboard (if that’s all good and proper).

Maybe give Patrick a call?

Great suggestion, I think I'll do that, at least for a consult. The other option is to sell it, disclosing warts, and move on to the next guitar. It's really really hard to play anything else after a fly though. They are such perfect guitars in terms of playability to me... The right ergonomics to hold, they hang just right. And the fretboard and neck are exactly what I like.

But if Patrick could set the neck in a better place to pull the action down that would be great too. Will be expensive just to ship and back... oh things to think about. Thanks for the thoughts and advice, much appreciated!

Happy to help!

I’m not sure what the going rate for a Fly with a truss issues might be. Might be a wash with what it would also cost to get it fixed. Hard to know, but keep us posted!

If you’re in a real bind, I have some ideas that I would be willing to try.

It would leave a scar but should be fully functional.

billy wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 5:10 pm If you’re in a real bind, I have some ideas that I would be willing to try.

I’m curious to hear what you’re thinking, @billy! Some way of removing the truss?

Hey VJ

No, I think the truss rod/wire can stay.

But I’d remove the chunk of wood on the back of the neck to get access to the part where the anchor is bulging.

I’d rebuild that area carefully making sure the anchor is back in position, then reattach the remaining part of the chunk.

You’d see an outline where it was cut but it could be filled flush. I also think that the repair could be done without hurting the thin cf stripe down the center.

The other way would be to remove the fretboard and rebuild but those are tricky to remove and not many spares with frets. Yet.

Thank you SO MUCH for this reply - this is a great idea. I'm going to try to sell the guitar on Reverb with all caveats listed, but if I don't get any hits I will likely try this suggestion.

No problem- I have another idea too that is harder to do but involves going in from under the nut.

This presumes that nothing is sheared (or rather the truss rod is in tact) but the wood around it is deformed from over torquing.

You’d probably still have the slight bulge but should allow for adjusting the slight bow out.

I’d really have to see it in person but I’m mildly optimistic.

Welp, I sold her. I just felt it wasn't worth all the hassle. Now I'm dreaming of taking the cash and buying an earlier pre-refined model... Out of curiosity which do era/model do you prefer?

The four I currently own each have their own character, and I seem to cycle through thinking each one sounds the “best.” Though it’s no longer a buyer’s market, I encourage folks to try out a variety of Flys - Just wait for one to pop up for the right price.