the Anatomy of a Fly

Sources for Cloned and Replacement Fly Parts
User avatar
vjmanzo
Site Admin
Posts: 2021
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2019 12:35 pm
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by vjmanzo »

Patzag wrote: Sun Jun 04, 2023 6:59 pm Does anyone know of a source for a Tocos Master pot?
The original Tocos pot is linked as the “alt” option in the main post, but it’s been discontinued.

Are you looking for something to fit the footprint of your flex PCB?
User avatar
Patzag
Forum Veteran
Posts: 595
Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 10:52 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by Patzag »

vjmanzo wrote: Sun Jun 04, 2023 9:26 pm
Are you looking for something to fit the footprint of your flex PCB?
Yes.
I do have one spare from an old Hardtail that I mangled to make the chrome boy. So I'm not "dying" but it would have been nice to replace the original pot with an identical model.
nuovonormale
New Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2023 3:23 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by nuovonormale »

Hi,
looking at the Parts list.. I see for Bridge bearing post and post bushing both longer AND shorter versions are listed.
Can you help me clarify the difference and where each is used? different models of the Fly? or maybe I just don't understand how they work exactly.. (I was not able to remove the c-rings and let the bushings out.. so I have no idea how long they are)
In case which of the parts below should I buy as replacements in a Deluxe Pre-refined?

-Bridge Bearing Posts (longer version) — modeled
-Bridge Bearing Posts (shorter version) — modeled
-Bridge Post Bushing (longer version) — modeled
-Bridge Post Bushings (shorter version) — forthcoming

thanks in advance,
Andrea
User avatar
vjmanzo
Site Admin
Posts: 2021
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2019 12:35 pm
Location: New York, NY
Contact:

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by vjmanzo »

Hi @nuovonormale—yes, happy to help clarify: the bass side of the vibrato bridge Fly has a shorter bridge post and post bushing as shown in the image in the original post above.

Regarding that c ring, you need c ring pliers like this in order to get them out.

That being said, you can raise the posts by turning a hex wrench under the bushings (back of your Fly) without the need to remove the c rings if you’re simply trying to remove the bridge.
User avatar
mmmguitar
Forum Veteran
Posts: 1214
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2019 1:25 am
Contact:

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by mmmguitar »

vjmanzo wrote: Sat Jul 15, 2023 7:50 pm you can raise the posts by turning a hex wrench under the bushings (back of your Fly) without the need to remove the c rings if you’re simply trying to remove the bridge.
I plan to just cover those C rings with tape when I paint my Flys :lol:
Summary of the Parker Guitars speculator market from 2020 onward: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory
nuovonormale
New Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2023 3:23 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by nuovonormale »

hi @vjmanzo thanks as always for your help.
I had looked at that photo more couple of times but didn't notice the different lenghts of the two "sides".
I finally tried to glue my partially lifted fret today (I'll expand on that on the original thread) and to avoid removing the (new) strings, removed the bridge instead .. so I had a chance to measure the posts length..
the bass side is around 3.0 cm while the treble is more like 3.3-3.4 cm, as you said.
so I realized that a couple of spare posts I have is not matched correctly (both being of the longer type)!!
cheers
andrea
rauno78
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2023 1:47 pm

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by rauno78 »

Hello everyone! I have a Parker Fly Deluxe with a broken master volume pot. So does anyone know where I could find a 10k stereo pot with the same length of coil?

Rauno
Finland
White94FlyDeluxe
New Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2024 10:07 pm

Mag PUP Selector Switch in Middle Position

Post by White94FlyDeluxe »

Hello Fly lovers.

My story of interest in these fine instruments was seeing a Fly advertisement in Guitar Player in 1994 and was intrigued. So I soon ordered an all white 1994 Fly Deluxe which is in mint condition and I am still very happy to own. :-) What an incredible guitar. I am a hobbyist/collector and am fortunate to own a 1953/'57 Les Paul conversion bought in 1977, a '67 Tele and an early Custom Shop relic Strat from '97 among others. Each are absolutely incredible instruments to play. But every time I play my Fly, I rediscover just how awesome the Parker Fly is. The tremolo is butter smooth, and the balance and tone you get between the mag and piezo pups is outstanding and so musically inspiring. And those stainless frets play and bend effortlessly like you're on ice skates.

But the one question I do have is about function of the magnetic pickup selector switch when in the middle position. When in the middle on mine, instead of what I would expect to be a good balance of both mag pups together, I get a sort of shrill half volume tone that is not very useful. I wasn't sure whether it was supposed to function as I would expect and activate both neck and bridge mag pickups. And it does this independent of whether I include the piezo or not with the other selector switch. And it means I never use that middle position.

I wondered if anyone else experienced this or had some perspective to share.
Much appreciated.
-sd
User avatar
Patzag
Forum Veteran
Posts: 595
Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 10:52 am

Re: Mag PUP Selector Switch in Middle Position

Post by Patzag »

White94FlyDeluxe wrote: Wed Jan 03, 2024 2:01 am Hello Fly lovers.

My story of interest in these fine instruments was seeing a Fly advertisement in Guitar Player in 1994 and was intrigued. So I soon ordered an all white 1994 Fly Deluxe which is in mint condition and I am still very happy to own. :-) What an incredible guitar. I am a hobbyist/collector and am fortunate to own a 1953/'57 Les Paul conversion bought in 1977, a '67 Tele and an early Custom Shop relic Strat from '97 among others. Each are absolutely incredible instruments to play. But every time I play my Fly, I rediscover just how awesome the Parker Fly is. The tremolo is butter smooth, and the balance and tone you get between the mag and piezo pups is outstanding and so musically inspiring. And those stainless frets play and bend effortlessly like you're on ice skates.

But the one question I do have is about function of the magnetic pickup selector switch when in the middle position. When in the middle on mine, instead of what I would expect to be a good balance of both mag pups together, I get a sort of shrill half volume tone that is not very useful. I wasn't sure whether it was supposed to function as I would expect and activate both neck and bridge mag pickups. And it does this independent of whether I include the piezo or not with the other selector switch. And it means I never use that middle position.

I wondered if anyone else experienced this or had some perspective to share.
Much appreciated.
-sd
Hi!
The middle position is supposed to emulate the position 2 or 4 of a strat by splitting the pickups. I also did not like the tone so I tied the 2 wires that split the coil so that middle position is now both humbuckers together. I find this a much better solution for me.
White94FlyDeluxe
New Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2024 10:07 pm

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by White94FlyDeluxe »

That's very helpful, thanks Patzak.
White94FlyDeluxe
New Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2024 10:07 pm

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by White94FlyDeluxe »

Follow-up on the middle mag pickup selector switch mod to remove the split coil function and make it a normal join of both neck and bridge pickups. Is that mod easy and straight for a novice with a soldering iron or tricky or risky and you'd advise to take it in to a luthier?
User avatar
Patzag
Forum Veteran
Posts: 595
Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 10:52 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by Patzag »

White94FlyDeluxe wrote: Mon Jan 08, 2024 6:47 pm Follow-up on the middle mag pickup selector switch mod to remove the split coil function and make it a normal join of both neck and bridge pickups. Is that mod easy and straight for a novice with a soldering iron or tricky or risky and you'd advise to take it in to a luthier?
Extraordinarily easy.
1. Open up the cavity cover - 7 or 9 screws (Can't remember)
2. Locate the 3-way switch
3. Warm up your iron
4. Remove the Neck Red and Green from the switch - Make sure they're still tied together and put a bit of electrical tape on the "live" end to prevent a short.
5. Do the same with the Black/white from the bridge pickup.
6. Close it up and play!

See diagram below ...
Parker Wiring Diagram.jpg
White94FlyDeluxe
New Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2024 10:07 pm

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by White94FlyDeluxe »

Awesome! Thanks so much, I can't wait to try that!
White94FlyDeluxe
New Member
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2024 10:07 pm

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by White94FlyDeluxe »

Success! I managed with my large hands to detach the mag wire sets from the switch and it works great. The middle position is usable for the first time since 1995! It gives a nice glassy tone, but I notice I do need to roll off the tone to 2-3 for a nice balanced tone.
Thanks again!
I also took some pics of it and will post them on the Show Your Fly site.
Browndog Owner
New Member
Posts: 31
Joined: Fri Mar 12, 2021 12:45 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by Browndog Owner »

Hello Everyone,

I'm looking to buy 16 neck mounting bolts (screws?) and 16 neck mounting ferrules (inserts?) that go with them for the Parker Nitefly. Can anyone help me?

Thanks.
Rbmusica
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2024 1:45 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by Rbmusica »

Hi all, first post here... what a beautiful project! I read the post of Ken Parker about stainless steel frets and his preference (in that moment in time, at least) for Jescar EVO wire, but I wonder which kind of standard frets (with tangs) should I buy and are sold in Europe, possibly, to have the same exact fret width and height of my 1995 fly deluxe, and hopefully be of similar quality?

Thanks!
User avatar
mmmguitar
Forum Veteran
Posts: 1214
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2019 1:25 am
Contact:

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by mmmguitar »

Welcome!

Until someone else chimes in, @Rbmusica, I'll point out that the tangless Fly fret wire was supposedly the hardest formulation that the factory could extrude; with tanged formulations necessarily being softer due to the malleability requirement. So Jescar stainless, EVO gold, etc. are not going to be nearly as tough as the Fly fretwire - But are still plenty resilient for most players' needs.

According to the below quoted post from VJ, the closest common fretwire profile spec to what was on '90s Flys is 6105 "tall/narrow." You should be able to find wire with that profile in nickel/silver and stainless steel alloys.
vjmanzo wrote: Tue Dec 01, 2020 7:01 pm the pre-refined Fly frets are most likely similar in size to 6105 fret wire, which is standardized to .047" height and 095" width.
Summary of the Parker Guitars speculator market from 2020 onward: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory
Rbmusica
New Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2024 1:45 am

Re: the Anatomy of a Fly

Post by Rbmusica »

Thanks, really useful info!
Post Reply