the Fly Clone Project

Hello, I'm new to the forum and I write from Italy. Sorry my english but i'm using "google translate". I am the owner of a FLY DELUXE (Sn 198026 BP USA). I have a problem with the Master POT Volume. It got noisy and halfway through the rotation the sound cuts out. The potentiometer in the guitar is a TOCOS but I didn't understand the characteristics exactly. In the parts list it would appear that the original is the BOURNS which is a linear, while in the TOCOS catalog it looks like Logarithmic (CWLOG). In addition, the waiting times for shipping to Italy are about six months. I would like to look for an alternative to buy in Europe. Has anyone had the same problem and can you tell me the electrical characteristics and dimensions? Thanks in advance. GUIDO

@Guido56

If importing a Bourns or TOCOS is out of the question, then any dual gang, 10kΩ potentiometer with dimensions close to 25mm shaft length, 9mm bushing diameter, and 6mm shaft diameter should suffice as a replacement. I don’t find the taper being linear or audio to be all that important in Flys with a buffered magnetic signal (much less in the pre-refined master volume pot), but someone else may weigh in on that topic.

mmmguitar wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 11:46 am I don’t find the taper being linear or audio to be all that important in Flys with a buffered magnetic signal

+1 this and everything else Marc said

From what I can see the Fly deluxe uses a 500K Audio Taper Potentiometer for the volume..
I would choose a good quality brand name such as CTS or Bourns, I have been wanting to try a EVH Pot..
Here's a Wiring Diagram I found that might be helpful.

https://guitarelectronics.com/van-halen ... -pot-500k/

Da quello che posso vedere il Parker fly deluxe utilizza un potenziometro audio cono 500K per il volume.
Sceglierei un marchio di buona qualità come CTS o Bourns, ho voluto provare un EVH Pot.
Ecco uno schema elettrico che ho trovato che potrebbe essere utile.

@Fly Rod, Guido seems to be inquiring about replacing the 10k TOCOS-branded master volume pot for a Wilmington, DE-produced ‘96 Fly Deluxe’s active ribbon assembly, pictured here:
The diagram you’re referencing would be for Flys produced by USM in Buffalo Grove, IL from approximately 2003-onward. And even those specs changed over time (e.g. I’ve seen USM-era Flys with three 250k audio taper pots). If indeed he’s referring to the mag volume for a refined Fly, it will be a much easier job.

I’ve used those low-friction EVH pots. As nice as they were, I couldn’t get used to how easily they moved from 10 to 0 (particularly when backing off the volume with a treble bleed).

You are correct @mmmguitar
My Bad..
here's the only wiring diagram I have of the early flys

Here’s a diagram drawn up by one JM Staehli:

Fly Rod wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 1:52 pm From what I can see the Fly deluxe uses a 500K Audio Taper Potentiometer for the volume..
I would choose a good quality brand name such as CTS or Bourns, I have been wanting to try a EVH Pot..
Here's a Wiring Diagram I found that might be helpful.

https://guitarelectronics.com/van-halen ... -pot-500k/

Da quello che posso vedere il Parker fly deluxe utilizza un potenziometro audio cono 500K per il volume.
Sceglierei un marchio di buona qualità come CTS o Bourns, ho voluto provare un EVH Pot.
Ecco uno schema elettrico che ho trovato che potrebbe essere utile.

R Type Fly Wiring.jpg

Thanks Fly Rod for the reply. I think the diagram doesn't match my Parker because it doesn't have a push / pull pot

mmmguitar wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 2:06 pm @Fly Rod, Guido seems to be inquiring about replacing the 10k TOCOS-branded master volume pot for a Wilmington, DE-produced ‘96 Fly Deluxe’s active ribbon assembly, pictured here:

00A8E05E-593D-4AFD-ADB9-8AD8F93E64F3.png

The diagram you’re referencing would be for Flys produced by USM in Buffalo Grove, IL from approximately 2003-onward. And even those specs changed over time (e.g. I’ve seen USM-era Flys with three 250k audio taper pots). If indeed he’s referring to the mag volume for a refined Fly, it will be a much easier job.

I’ve used those low-friction EVH pots. As nice as they were, I couldn’t get used to how easily they moved from 10 to 0 (particularly when backing off the volume with a treble bleed).

Thanks mmguitar for your answers. The photo corresponds exactly to the electronics of my Parker. Now I just need to find a 10k / 10k potentiometer with the right size. I also have a friend who has an electronic repair shop that can take care of the soldering

Guido56 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:12 amI also have a friend who has an electronic repair shop that can take care of the soldering

Sounds good. Just remember that the 1990s ribbon circuit in the Fly is very delicate; and a tear during the surgery may put you in the position of either rewiring the entire guitar or joining others in receiving the latest updates from the Fly Clone project.

Have a look at this pot
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10k-oh ... meter.html

mmmguitar wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 5:42 am

Guido56 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:12 amI also have a friend who has an electronic repair shop that can take care of the soldering

Sounds good. Just remember that the 1990s ribbon circuit in the Fly is very delicate; and a tear during the surgery may put you in the position of either rewiring the entire guitar or joining others in receiving the latest updates from the Fly Clone project.

Yes, I know it is very fragile ... but this friend, last year, had already replaced the three-way switch which is much more difficult to replace because it is in a bad position! he had to disassemble all the electronics! I try to find the potentiometer in Italy

Fly Rod wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 9:34 am Have a look at this pot
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/10k-oh ... meter.html
10k pot.jpg

From Thailand! Perhaps it is easier to find it in Italy! Thanks anyway for the information

That pot could be made to work, if you thinned out the cavity side of the hole with a forstner bit or something. But just going by that photo, the bushing looks too short to make it through the guitar’s top for the nut to thread on to.

mmmguitar wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 7:15 pm That pot could be made to work, if you thinned out the cavity side of the hole with a forstner bit or something. But just going by that photo, the bushing looks too short to make it through the guitar’s top for the nut to thread on to.

I think that when they disassemble the potentiometer in the laboratory, they will be able to look for one with the measurements that correspond to the hole. The 10K ohm value is a very common value

mmmguitar wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 7:15 pm That pot could be made to work, if you thinned out the cavity side of the hole with a fostner bit or something. But just going by that photo, the bushing looks too short to make it through the guitar’s top for the nut to thread on to.

You don't want to go to that extent , I've done that before on another guitar brand to use a dual stacked concentric 250k/500k tone pot from a 53 Fender Bass & you leave the top as thin as a pickguard around the top which is not very strong on the Parkers with some wood types..
I routed down with the mini dremel router in that case. NOTE: See where the copper foil tape is missing around the pot in photo below.
It is a Jackson DK2M Pile-O-Skulls, I even made a concentric stacked knob set by cutting them both & changing the interior size of each with a drill & a spacer = TOO MUCH WORK IMO.. SEE 2nd Pic.

There has to be a potentiometer that can work & be soldered onto the ribbon of the pre refined Parker Flies..
OR a nut that is like the ones used on tuners that steps down.

There was a fellow who was asking this same exact question on the Parker guitar owners and lovers group last night & I gave the link to this thread there..

Someone needs to find a suitable unit & give the link to where they are available here in this thread..
Gary/FLY ROD
Also NOTE: How I blocked the trem so it can't float = With parts from the shop, Tele style bridge plate & string saddle & screw/bolt & nut.
Hey it works 100% & was FREE. Thought about putting epoxy around where I weakened the top??

That does sound like a lot of work.

Just FYI, @Fly Rod, we can’t follow links to private groups and websites, so please just copy what you wrote or summarize.

Fixed It!!
Sorry about that VJ
Gary

Thanks, Gary; no worries, m’man!

What do you guys think about this Potentiometer - Marshall, 10K, Linear, Dual, 16mm ??
Common for JCM 900 Marshall Amps..
MP-1 Preamp 8080, 8100, 8200, 8240, 8280
JCM900 Models 4100, 4500, 4101, 4102, 4501, 4502, SL-X 2100, SL-X 2500
JTM600 and JTM30 Series 6100, 6101
https://reverb.com/item/2996362-potenti ... -dual-16mm