The guitar’s trem was always able to be pulled back (sharp) when the stop step was in locked position (bend-down only). My assumption was that the stop had an alignment issue. Yeah, the low e’s intonation was always on the sharp side, really had to jam the saddle back against the string to get it in...

I have been some tuning/intonation issues on my Mojo and have suspected the dreaded leaning post problem. Alas, I just removed the strings and tested the rigidity of the bridge. I am able to rotate the bridge about the high E post with some angular play at the low e side. Here is a video, let me kno...

I’ve been mulling over the idea of designing a system that relies on magnets for the spring constant. Would be a combination of repulsion and attraction. Not sure if strong neodymium could safely be used within a guitar, but the idea interests me. To Patzag ’s point I have seen one spring issue on m...

Nitefly in good condition

https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/msg/ ... 75483.html

Wanted to write a review on my experience with Patrick Cummings of iGuitar Workshop. I sent my Mojo to him earlier this year. The nature of the repair was to correct fret buzzing and some dead frets. Patrick determined that most of the issues were related to the fretboard delaminating. Additionally,...

I do not believe that the manual has the relief specified. However, @vjmanzo got it directly from @Ken Parker that they would measure .007” at the 5th fret with 1st & 12th depressed: viewtopic.php?p=4567&hilit=.007%E2%80%9D#top

@vjmanzo the above setup feels great. I had about half of the relief that I should have had. Plays more easily and got rid of the sitar effect I had on D string.

Alex666 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 05, 2023 4:10 pm Ahhh, this is my new Fly.

Did you pick this one up?

No, everything is good with the fretboard so far. Patrick has had a lot of experience with Parker guitars (and Parker himself). He came recommended by VJ. I’ll write a full review on my experience soon.

My ‘11 Mojo’s fretboard did delaminate from the neck, but the repair cost was quite reasonable (~$250 sans shipping). Had it repaired by Patrick @ iGuitar Workshop - an excellent guy.

I did file the nut to accommodate 10 gauge strings, but was careful not to deepen the slots. However, it’s quite possible that I cut too deep. Will try the glue trick.

I see - so I should not use this on a pre-USM Fly, correct?

It looks like the ‘parker-factory graphtech’ lacks the groove that my current nut has — did Parker add that ergonomic groove?

I have a bit of a sitar effect on the D string of my ‘98, so I picked up a few nuts (listing states they were picked up from Parker factory). Is there an adhesive that needs to be removed? Or are the nuts just held in place with slots?

jb63 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 10:14 pm use the RMC saddles. they are gold and both look and operate fantastic.

I am not familiar with these, can you share more info?

Edit: RMC PowerBridge PF, these were used on the Belew sig. Where could one procure these?

Haha that would be more straightforward

I always have them on to some degree. It seems that there are mixed opinions about the pairing of the ghosts with the original Fishman pre-amp.

I forgot that the Jazz had gold hardware, I so rarely see them. This one even has gold anodized frets: https://reverb.com/item/43516637-2000-pre-refined-parker-fly-jazz-fly-select-original-case?utm_source=rev-ios-app&utm_medium=ios-share&utm_campaign=listing&utm_content=43516637 There is...

I’ve been considering adding gold hardware to my black Deluxe for some time now. At a minimum, that would be the tuners and pole pieces (though, I would quite like to anodize the saddles, if possible). The Sperzels are obviously the easiest bit - I reached out to DiMarzio about the pole pieces, I be...

Another pricey 2008

https://reverb.com/item/64192808-parker ... t=64192808