the Fly Clone Project

Do you guys have any tips for how to modify the pre-refined nut when switching from 9 to 10 gauge? I thought that there was a post about this, but I could not find it.

Gregsaab wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 6:44 pm Do you guys have any tips for how to modify the pre-refined nut when switching from 9 to 10 gauge? I thought that there was a post about this, but I could not find it.

From most to least expensive:

-Invest in the tools to shape and slot a new nut from a blank
- Invest in only a 10-46 nut slotting file set and enlarge the slots of the original nut
-Pay someone to fabricate a new nut that’s slotted 10-46
-Pay someone with a set of slotting files to enlarge the slots in the current nut
-Enlarge the slots yourself by wrapping a thin section of sandpaper (no courser than 320 or 400 grit) around the old 9-42 strings after loosening them, then using the string wrapped in sandpaper to move back and forth until the sides of the nut slots are worn in to a wider diameter
-Enlarge the slots by moving the new 10-46 strings back and forth through the slots until they’re been enlarged enough to be accommodating. Note that some binding may still occur; and a dab of tri-flow or graphite lubrication may prove necessary to aid with tuning stability.

#NutIssues

Thank you for the vast array of options!

Gregsaab wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 7:29 pm Thank you for the vast array of options!

Happy to chime in. It’s just unfortunate that nut slotting file sets are so expensive.

Could you be more explicit about wrapping a thin piece of sandpaper around the 9 gauge strings? Do you mean the thickness of the paper should be thin, or should a narrow strip be used?

Then, would the string be moved with the paper, or just move the paper with the string as a guide?

Is graphite lubricant safe for the frets? Or would I need to be fairly careful with that?

@Gregsaab, 1:37 of this video-onward demonstrates better than I can word it:



Concerning anything interacting with the frets: Just use pinpoint application to the nut slots to make sure any lubricant applied (even if only a #2 pencil) is isolated from the frets. For the record, I believe only solvents and solvent-based cleaners regarded as safe for other guitars are of concern with regard to Fly frets and fingerboards. Officially, Flys use graphite composite nuts so that no redundant application of lubricant is required. But that assumes optimal nut slotting, which goes out the window as soon as we change string gauge or if there is break angle at the nut slot causing binding.

Good ol’ Phil - he has a Fly or two. Thanks!

I went for these:
MusicNomad MN668 6 pc. Diamond Coated Electric Guitar Nut Slotting File Set - Light Strings, with Storage Case https://a.co/d/fWDFSMF

Do I need to file at an angle when enlarging the slots?

Gregsaab wrote: ↑Tue Oct 04, 2022 5:00 pm Do I need to file at an angle when enlarging the slots?

No. For me, the main concern is wanting to avoid deepening the slots; because they should already have been slotted about as low as they could go at the factory on Ken’s slotting jig (which leads to this problem once a string has worn its slot deeper with time). So long as you take care to not press down on the file as you make straight passes with it, you should succeed in enlarging the sides of each slot just enough that the string won’t bind with trem use. Expect some trial and error, as well as some degree of compromise in tuning stability you’ll have to live with (e.g., the low E returning ten or more cents sharp from a trem dive) - These are non-locking trems and nuts, after all.

That wasn’t so bad - filed all three of my Flys - tuning stability is virtually perfect. Thank you!

Well done!

Gregsaab wrote: ↑Wed Oct 12, 2022 8:08 pm That wasn’t so bad - filed all three of my Flys - tuning stability is virtually perfect. Thank you!

Congrats! Now you know how silly it is for shop "techs" to be afraid to work on the guitars.

Way to go, @Gregsaab!